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Classic Lashing : Step by Step
You will have to assess your client's natural lashes to determine which lashes are suitable for them. They may want the heaviest lash but you are the professional and you need to advise them according to whatever is best for their lash health.
If your client has thick natural lashes you can go for a 0.2 as a maximum (these will tend to be your younger clients)
Medium strength lashes can support a 0.15 (Early 30s-40's)
For weak lashes choose a 0.12. There are 0.10 available also but these are very fine and only really suitable for use in multilash techniques. (Mature clients)
Generally you shouldn't really be using anything heavier than a 0.15 thickness especially if your client is looking to have lash extensions long term.
Choosing your lashes
The lashes you apply should never extend the lashes by more than a third. Take into consideration the kind of look they are after first of all. If they want a dramatic look you can choose longer length lashes but bear in mind that the longer they are, the heavier they are and your client may find that they twist or droop. You could counter this effect by choosing a lighter weight. As an example, if they have their heart set on a dramatic, longer length set but you don't think their lashes could support say a 12 or 13mm in 0.15 you can keep the length but drop the thickness to a 0.12 or even do a 2D effect in a 0.10.
If your client is after a natural look then choose lashes that are 1-2mm longer than their own lashes.
Labelling your pads
To maintain symmetry it is a good idea to label your pads with a marker. This will allow you to quickly see where each length needs to be place and helps to keep your sets more uniform.
Step by Step
When you have prepped your client and chosen your lashes you are ready to start. This is a guide to help show you step by step how you should apply your sets.
1. Set up your lashes in your preferred method and dispense your adhesive onto your jade stone or into your glue ring. If you choose to use a glue ring, line it with foil. This will keep it fresher for longer and will also allow you to reuse it later.
3. Swipe your lash into your adhesive. The slower and more deliberate the movement, the less adhesive you will pick up. Monitor the humidity levels in your room so you can judge how much adhesive you will need. Ensure 2-3mm coverage at the base of the lash.
2. You can choose to isolate first and then pick up your lash or vice versa. Be mindful that you are not placing too much pressure on the lash pad with your isolating tweezers. As I keep my lashes on the back of my hand I find it easier to isolate first and then pick up a lash.
4. Make sure you are approaching the lash at exactly the right angle so you can get the best bond.
5. In your training you may have been taught to swipe the synthetic lash along the natural lash and then shimmy it into place. This is how I was trained but I found my retention improved massively when I began to just place on the natural lash instead. Attach the lash as close as you can to the lid but leave a very small gap and never allow any adhesive to come into contact with the skin.
You don't want any of the surrounding lashes to touch your extension as it is setting as you'll end up with stickies. This is where having a fast setting adhesive is beneficial. When you first train you will probably be given a sensitive or 5 second set time adhesive to help you practice but the faster you can move on to a faster setting adhesive, the quicker you will advance in your technique.
While you are practicing you can apply one lash to each eye at a time. This will allow them to set completely before you return to that eye again.
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