Eyelash extensions are not a 'One size fits all' kind of service. Well, at least it's not if you are a good lash tech! You need to really assess your client's eyeshape to see what lashes will enhance their features. Everyone wants a cat flick but in reality there are few clients that can support it. The outer lashes generally begin to shorten as you approach the outer eye and often if you do a cat flick it will make their eyes droop. Discuss with your clients what look they are after and ask them to bring in pictures.
It may be unrealistic and if so you will need to explain why but offer them other solutions so they can still get a beautiful set. It's much better to explain what you can offer and manage their expectations than have them disappointed at the end of their treatment. They may leave feeling that they didn't get what they paid for and go elsewhere and not only that but you will be left feeling deflated after you put all that work in and they are not happy. BUT... If you take the time beforehand to explain to them that their lashes are too fine/ sparse etc and you can't achieve the particular look they are after. Explain how it would damage their lashes to do so but inform them what you can offer. They may not get that Kim Kardashian look they were after but they will know that you are a specialist who cares about lash health and has given them the very best set they can safely achieve.
This is a great effect for opening up the eye as the longest lashes are concentrated in the centre of the lashline. You may want to choose this effect if clients want quite a dramatic look but you can tone it down by using shorter lashes.
Once you have assessed your clients eye shape you can decide what sort of look would suit them best. The pictures below can act as a guide for how to achieve the different looks. I have annotated them with lash lengths but this is just so you can get an idea of how to label your lash pad, you can substitute your own lengths. Just make sure that you record what lengths and thicknesses you used on your client on your lash map. It's a little embarassing when your client's booked in for a new set and 'wants what you did last time' but you can't remember what you did!
The Cat Eye/ Feline Flick
The lashes you apply to create this look start fairly short but gradually increase in length until half way where you use longer lengths to lengthen the eye outwards. Good for almond shaped or close set eyes. The longer outer lashes can be too heavy for some clients and make the eye look smaller and droop.
This will most likely look like a shorter version of the dolly but it's where you use the natural lashes to guide you. Generally natural lashes will be longest 1/2 to 3/4 along the lashline and then taper off again. To make it look more natural you can feather the lashes (See the section on Feathering for details)
Eye Styling Video
Squirrel/ Kitten Effect
This is an adaptation of the cat flick for those clients that can't support that look. The lashes start short again and then lengthen at about the halfway point but instead of continuing to lengthen right to the outer corner, the length starts to taper down again at the 3/4 point.
Using the brow to guide you...
If you still cannot decide which style to choose then you can use your client's brows as a guide. If they have a high arch to their eyebrow then a Kitten or Cat flick will suit them. If their brows are quite rounded then go for more of a Dolly look.